Christmas Plants and Flowers

Flowering Christmas plants, such as azaleas, Christmas cacti, poinsettias and cyclamen add such a festive touch to the cold months that most of us want to prolong their flowering.

The best way to do keep these plants flowering is by giving them cool conditions.

Temperatures of 50 to 60?F (10 to 15?C) are ideal for most of these plants (however Poinsettias like it a bit warmer).

Avoid letting them get too cold at night, which can happen if they sit on a chilly window sill. Another problem is too setting plants too close to heating outlets, which can cause them to dry out quickly.

Festive poinsettia

These flowers - actually colored bracts - are very long-lasting, and can be showy for months.

Poinsettias do best in bright conditions, but don't like direct sunlight. Water them thoroughly when the top of potting soil starts to dry out.

These Christmas plants like it relatively warm, 60 to 70?F (15 to 21?C), and need to be kept out of draughts. Mist them regularly to prolong the life of their showy bracts.

There isn't much point to keeping poinsettias through the growing season to attempt re-blooming because they need exacting conditions of light and temperature, so it's easiest just to discard them when you've grown tired of them.

It's a myth that poinsettias are poisonous if the leaves or bracts are chewed or ingested.

After doing extensive testing on rats, Ohio State University researchers found no adverse effects.

Poinsettias belong to the Euphorbia family of plants, which exude a milky sap from leaves, flower bracts and stems when broken open.

Sometimes, this sap can cause mild skin rashes, and that has probably contributed to the myth that this popular Christmas plant is poisonous.

Indoor cyclamen will flower for several months. Choose a plant that has lots of buds, and look for healthy colored leaves.

Cyclamen thrive in a cool, bright spot, but avoid setting them in strong sunlight. Be sure to keep them away from heat sources. Avoid overwatering.

Groom the plants by removing finished flower stems. After flowering, continue careful watering and feeding until leaves yellow, then decrease watering as the plant goes dormant in summer. When new growth resumes, start regular watering. This is also a good time to repot.

These Christmas flowers are like cool, moist and shady growing conditions. An east or north-facing window sill is ideal.

Don't let them dry out, and keep them away from hot air heating outlets. The best way to water them is to set the pot into a saucer of water at room temperature for about five minutes, and then let the pot drain.

Indoor azaleas also benefit from added humidity provided by a pebble tray.

You can keep this plant outdoors in the summer in a cool, shady spot. Water frequently, and give it fertilizer for acid-loving plants, and bring it indoors before fall frosts arrive.

Lady's Mantle Flowers

Leaves with dew drops

Lady's Mantle is an undemanding perennial charmer that's beautiful and easy to grow.

It has four- to six-inch wide leaves that look like pleated fans with shallow scalloped lobes and serrated edges.

The lightly-haired velvety soft leaves have the delightful habit of retaining dew and rain drops like jewels, which stay in place until dried by the warmth of the day.

Plant this perennial in dappled sunlight or part shade with evenly moist soil.Hardy in zones 4-7, it needs deeper shade and more frequent watering in the hotter regions, but is not fussy about soil type, or soil pH, and has no insect or disease problems.

Lady's Mantle has a long-flowing period

The plants grow into spreading mounds that are about a foot wide and tall.

You can use Lady's Mantle as an effective edging plant along borders and paths.

It also creates a ground cover carpet under leggy plants such as roses and shrubs or trees.

The softly rounded form complements and combines well with taller, upright plants such as Siberian irises, foxgloves and speedwells, but is equally at home with more spready plants such as hostas, ferns and astilbes.

In late spring, airy sprays of small chartreuse flowers extend 12 inches above the leaves and make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Use them as attractive fillers in bouquets.

If very happy in its site, this plant may self-seed; to prevent this, just remove the flower heads as they fade.

Many species have been described but only two or three are easy to find in catalogs or garden centers.

Alchemilla mollis (sometimes sold as A. vulgaris) is the easiest one to find. Its only shortcoming is a tendency to flop or look a bit ratty after flowering when grown in full sun, but cutting back the old foliage will quickly produce a flush of bright new leaves. The cultivar 'Thriller' tends to hold its shape better then the species and seldom needs to be cut back.

A. erythropoda resembles a miniature version of A. mollis and works well in rock gardens or in containers.

You can't go wrong with Alchemilla in a flower garden: it's a captivating plant that provides season-long interest with its subtle beauty and outstanding foliage.

Growing Flowering Vines

One of the most popular climbing vines for sun is clematis, with many varieties boasting stunning flowers. Other favorites are wisteria and climbing roses.

The important point for all of these vines is that they get full sun. Some clematis varieties can take part shade, but be sure to plant them where they will get at least half a day of sunshine.

Clematis cultivar 'Dr Ruppel'

Large-flowered clematis hybrids, hardy from zone 4 to 8, are deciduous vines for sun that climb 8 to 12 feet using twining stems and tendrils.

Flowering time varies from late spring until frost, depending on the species or cultivar.

Clematis vines are available in a profusion of flower colors including white, blue, violet, purple, pink and red or bicolor.

Most prefer full sun - but some do well in part shade too - and loamy, moist but well-drained soil.

Pruning depends on the type - many types bloom on the current season's growth and should be cut down almost to the ground in early spring just before new growth starts. Prune those that bloom on previous year's growth immediately after flowering.

Pruning information should be on your plant tag, so be sure to hold onto it until you get your clematis care routine down.

More information: tips for choosing, planting and caring for clematis.

Fragrant wisteria in bloom

Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis): Both are vigorous twining vines, hardy from zone 5 to 9, growing 25 to 30 feet.

Both types are loved for long dangling clusters of fragrant blue flowers in spring and have strong woody stems that need very sturdy support posts. The flowers of the Japanese type are longer than those of the Chinese type.

This vine needs a strong structure such as a pergola for support.

Wisteria grows best in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Do a mid-summer pruning of new growth back to about six inches of main stems and prune shoots again in late winter back to two or three buds.

Roses climbing an arbour

The term "climbing roses" is a bit misleading. Roses don't climb the way that vines like clematis or wisteria do. They are simply rose varieties with long, arching canes that can grow about 10 feet tall.

Left to their own devices, these roses may grow into big, unmanageable shrubs, hooking their thorns into anything around, including unwary gardeners.

You can encourage them to climb by tying the canes to a support post or latticed trellis. (Wear long sleeves and leather gloves to protect from the thorns.)

Canadian rose breeders have developed hardy shrub roses named after famous explorers. Of the "Explorer" roses, the following make good climbers for sun: 'John Cabot' with its fragrant red double flowers, 'Martin Frobisher' with fragrant light pink flowers, and 'William Baffin', with deep pink, double flowers that aren't scented.

These cultivars are hardy from Zones 3 to 10 and require full sun and rich soil. More information on growing roses.

Amaryllis ( Hippeastrum ) Flowers

Amaryllis, also known as Hippeastrum, is about the most impressive flowering bulb you can grow as a houseplant. The flowers are large and trumpet-shaped and come in lovely shades.

Colors range from white and apple- blossom pink to scarlet; some varieties even have striped petals.

Amaryllis 'Snowkisses'

Hippeastrum flowers may look exotic, but they are easy to grow.

When you buy a bulb, look for a large, plump one with some roots attached.

Choose a pot that's slightly larger than the bulb, and plant into potting soil, leaving the "shoulders" (the top third of the bulb) exposed.

Keep the soil mix moist, but not wet, and temperatures above 64?F (18?C). Optimal temperatures are between 68 to 77?F (20 to 25?C). Place the bulb in bright light and watch for growth to resume. You should see a flower bud appear after a couple of weeks.

Turn your pot regularly so the flower stalk won't lean in one direction. The flowers can be quite top-heavy, so you might need give them added support with a slim stake and raffia ties.

The technique recommended for years has been growing the plants on through the summer outdoors, and then inducing dormancy by stopping watering in the fall and placing them in a dry cool spot indoors for 10 to 12 weeks.

The reason for this is to try force blooming for a specific period, usually Christmas. However, for bigger, healthier plants, some experts recommend allowing the bulb to continue growing vigorously as long as possible, so it will reward you with better blooms in January or February.

Once the flower is finished, cut off the stem just above the bulb nose. Give amaryllis bright light on a sunny windowsill or under plant lights.
Feed and water. Apply a standard water-soluble house plant fertilizer at half the recommended strength every two weeks.
Keep bulb in a pot sized "just right". As the bulb grows and the pot fills with roots, move it up to a bigger pot that's just slightly larger than the bulb. I like to use tall, narrow clay pots.
In summer, move the pot outdoors into a sunny spot and treat it like a container plant. Continue fertilizing until the middle of August. Don't allow the soil to dry out, but avoid keeping it soggy.
In fall, before there's a chance of frost, bring the plant inside and place in a sunny window or under plant lights. The leaves may yellow and die off by late December. During this time, keep the plant moist, not wet; most importantly, don't let the pot dry out. The buds for the new flowers should appear in January or February, but sometimes they bloom as late as March.After flowering, resume feeding and keep the pot in a sunny window or under plant lights until it can go outdoors again. Big vigorously growing bulbs will produce offsets - little baby bulbs - which you can pot up to grow to flowering size in a couple of seasons.

Flower Garden design tips

Did you dig in without considering garden design when you were starting out? That's what I did. I just kept making my beds a little wider each year to put in more perennials. It was a matter of learning by doing.

Like most gardens (yours too, I'll bet) my first one grew, bit by bit, without an overall plan. But now I believe any landscaping project is going to be more successful if you think it through first.

My garden in early summer. Photo: ? Y.Cunnington

By the time I got to my second garden on an acreage, shown here, I did draw up a plan.

The project was so big and had so many parts that we had to take quite a bit of time to consider what to do with each area before we started planting.

Planning your flower garden is a way to avoid the classic dilemma: wandering around with the plants you've just bought, wondering where the heck to plant them.

Designing on paper  Photo: ? Y.Cunnington

No, you don't have to draw out a plan, showing where every single perennial plant goes.

I was trained in garden design, and most of the time I don't have the patience for that!

The pros do it to figure out the exact number of plants to order, but home gardeners usually don't work that way.

When I make a drawing for myself, it's generally a simple one to show the layout of a bed, and a basic planting plan that shows the most important plants only.

A lot of folks see gardening primarily as getting color into their yards. But if you focus on colorful flowers first and foremost, it's a bit like arranging the lamps, accessories and pictures before your house has even been built.

I once took a landscape design course taught by the British garden guru John Brookes, author of John Brookes Garden Design. He advises planning and planting in the following order: First, the "specials", usually large deciduous trees that serve as focal points; next the "skeletons," evergreens or hedges for year-round structure.

Then come the "decoratives", flowering shrubs or tall grasses. And, finally, you get to the "pretties" – spring and summer-blooming perennials and fillers such as bulbs, annuals or biennials.

According to Brookes, many gardens lack structure and coherence because they were started with the "pretties."

Planting your garden will be easier if you take a little time to plan before you buy plants. Remember: nobody creates a prize-winning flower garden the first year — but you weren't going to invite the garden club over for coffee — not just yet anyway?

How to take care of flower seedlings

When you notice germination and seedlings beginning to grow, remove the plastic dome or plastic bag over your planting trays.

Check daily for moisture, but avoid the temptation to over-water.

Soggy soil, excess warmth and poor air circulation can lead to damping off, a common fungal disease that can kill baby plants. Prevention goes a long way, and you can use a fungicide called No Damp to help combat this.

Newly sprouted seedlings

Most young plants grow best at day-time temperatures between 70 to 75?F (21? to 24?C) and night-time temperatures between 55 to 65?F (13? to 18?C).

For healthy, bushy growth, tiny sprouts need plenty of light, and they're more likely to get it under fluorescent lights than on a windowsill.

You don't have to use expensive grow lights: ordinary cool-white 40-watt fluorescent tubes do nicely, as the young plants will only need to grow under them for a few weeks.

Shop lights that hang from chains on a light stand are ideal. The chains allow you to adjust the lights to keep them right above the seedlings.

Gardeners Supply offers a variety of
different grow lights for seed-starting

The importance of light: Keep plants as close to your lights as possible: This helps prevent plants from growing weak, spindly stems from stretching too.

Set your lights on an automatic timer set to be on for 18 hours and off for six hours.

When to start giving fertilizer: When your baby plants have two sets of true leaves (the first leaves are called cotyledons or seed leaves), start fertilizing once a week with half-strength liquid plant starter or fish emulsion fertilizer.

Transplanting: If necessary, transplant seedlings into their final pot once they have their second set of leaves. Always handle young plants by the leaves, as the roots and stems are very tender.

These home-grown petunias are big enough
to be hardened off outdoors

As planting-out time in the flower garden nears, coddled young plants raised indoors need to be toughened up or "hardened off."

To do this, set your plants outside in a shady, sheltered spot for at least a week or two before transplanting into the garden.

Give your plants half a day outdoors at first, and gradually leave them out longer, slowly moving them into sunnier and windier areas to get them used to life in the real world.

Once they're outside for good, protect them by covering them on cooler nights with a sheet or putting them into a closed cold frame.

Cool-season annuals such as pansies and snapdragons should be hardened off several weeks before tender, heat-loving ones such as impatiens or tomatoes.

Daylily Varieties: Overview to Growing and Care

Native to Japan, China and Korea, the daylily, otherwise known as Hemerocallis, is an extremely versatile plant that will add a bright burst of color to just about any garden or landscape. The name Hemerocallis stems from the Greek lexicon and means “one day beauty” because each bloom only lasts for a day, however, with a bit of advanced planning, you can create a daylily landscape that blooms all season long.

Daylilies are an excellent selection for the part-time gardener as they are extremely resistant to pests and diseases, are tolerant of poor soil, heat and drought and require only a small amount of maintenance. The first thing to keep in mind when preparing to plant daylilies is that their bloom periods are so short.

Flowers appear atop stalks that may be up to seven feet tall, then soon fade and are replaced by another flower on another stalk. This cycle is completed quickly.

Some daylilies, called re-bloomers, will flower in the spring and fall, when outdoor temperatures are lower, but will be dormant during the hot, summer months.

To create a daylily bed that flowers throughout the spring and summer, ask your local nursery owner or botanist what early-, mid- and late-season bloomers they’d recommend for your area. The orange ‘Stella de Oro” daylily, more commonly known as “ditch lily,” and the yellow ‘Happy Returns’ are two of only a handful of daylilies that bloom all season long.

Below is a brief guide for some of the other colors, though bloom times may vary a bit depending upon your location.

Hot Pink to Purple

Early: ‘Little Wine Cup’
Mid: ‘Chicago Apache’
Late: ‘Chicago Apache’

Light Pink

Early: ‘Antique Rose’
Mid: ‘Fairy Tale Pink’
Late: ‘Fall Fancy’

Peach

Early: ‘Chippewa Bride’
Mid: ‘Chippewa Bride’
Late: ‘Peach Mandelynne’

Though the flowers are short-lived, the grassy leaves, depending on species location, may range from being deciduous to evergreen, also providing year-round color in many locations.

Plant daylilies where they can get at least eight hours of sun per day. They prefer average to rich soil, but will tend not to flower as well if the soil is too rich, that is, if there is too much organic matter in the soil, so go easy on the use of compost and other high-nitrogen soil amendments.

Dead head as necessary to encourage new blooms and also remove spent stalks. Although there are thousands of different types of daylilies, all but about 15 of them are hybrids, which means that saving and planting their seeds will not produce a daylily that resembles the one from which the seeds were taken.

Rather than saving seedpods for reproduction, throw them away and divide daylily clumps in the early spring or fall.

Because of the grassy appearance of the leaves and the brightness of the blooms, daylilies will provide extra interest to your garden if you keep texture and color in mind while deciding what plants will surround them. Planting daylilies in front of tall grasses such as ‘Miscanthus spp.’ will give a breezy, natural look.

If you prefer something a bit more formal, try planting bright blooming daylilies in purples, pinks or yellows behind ground-hugging, light- or white-flowering vinca. Another nice combination would be to use pale or pink daylilies in front of silvery or blue evergreens like blue spruce. Daylilies also make a nice complement to backyard ponds and swimming pools.

As colorful additions to any landscape, daylilies are easy to plant, grow and maintain. They are resistant to many of the pest, disease and weather plagues that tend to make more fragile flowers fall by the wayside in the hot summer months and, with a bit of advanced planning, can be a pivotal element in your garden’s year round appeal.

Begonia Flowers: The Basics, How to Plant, and How to Care For

Begonia Flower Basics

There are several types of begonia popular among gardeners for their variety of flower colors, shade tolerance, and the fact that they flower all throughout the summer. Wax begonias and tuberous begonias are among the most common types.

Wax begonias do well in sunnier areas, and are preferred by southern gardeners for their drought and heat tolerance.

Tuberous begonias prefer shade, and don’t do as well in heat and humidity. Begonias can range between 8 inches and two feet tall. They grow well as bedding plants, in pots, hanging baskets, and in window boxes, but look especially attractive when planted in large masses. They grow well in partial shade, but need some sun for blooming well. They also prefer a moist, rich, well-drained soil.

Planting Begonias

Wait to plant until soil and air temperatures are in the 60s, as cold planting will adversely affect begonias’ growth. Plant begonias up to a foot apart, as this will allow them to leaf out and bloom to their full potential. Smaller plants can be placed closer together; wax begonias, for instance, will be fine about 6 to 8 inches apart.

Set seedlings or cuttings out to root in the spring, after any frost danger is past. If you are planting tuberous begonias, these are propagated with tubers, therefore their name. They must be dug up in the fall, since they won’t last the winter outdoors.

Store tubers indoors through the winter; they will sprout shoots in the spring and can then be tended as seedlings until they are big enough to transplant outdoors. Do this after frost danger has passed. Check your specific variety of begonia to be sure of its sun or shade requirements, as they do vary even within species and cultivars, and plant it in an appropriate location.

Caring for Begonias

Begonias do not need a lot of fertilization. Fertilize with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer once in the early spring to encourage new growth and good blooming, but refrain from fertilizing the rest of the growth cycle. Begonias are popular for the minimal are they need. In shady areas, they’ll need less water, as the sun won’t evaporate as much of their water as in full sun placements. Water when the soil at the base of the plants dries out to the touch; keep it moist, but not wet. Overly wet soil can encourage mildews and rots.

Begonia Pests and Diseases

Several pests and diseases affect begonias. Among fungal disease possibilities, gray mold and powdery mildew are the most common. These can be avoided by making sure mulch is not too deep, and not over watering the plants. Stem and root rot can also happen when soil is too wet, or if you water improperly, splashing water onto leaves and stems rather than directing it into the soil.

Prevent leaf spot and blight by pinching off faded or wilting blooms and dried up, curled leaves. Keep an eye out for dead, dying or diseased parts of plants, and remove and discard them quickly so as not to give insects and diseases an opening into the plant.

As far as common insects, slugs and snails are often attracted to begonias, as are mealy bugs and spider mites. Prevent mealy bugs by keeping the area well weeded, and avoiding high-nitrogen fertilizers. If you get spider mites, wash the plants thoroughly with a dilute soap mixture, to get rid of the eggs and larvae. Handling the problem while the infestation is small is best, as they can spread to other plants quickly after hatching.

Want to learn more about growing begonias?

Check out these sites for more information:

Clemson University in South Carolina has a guide to many types of begonias.

The American Begonia Society provides articles and a virtual greenhouse exploring begonias.

Wax begonias are explained by the University of Illinois Extension.

Geranium Care: Getting the Most Out of Your Flowers

Geranium Basics

Geraniums are a colorful and strongly scented plant that makes a good indoor houseplant as well as a bright, hardy addition to an outdoor garden. You can choose among a wide range of colors, whether you prefer single or double flowers, and if you need a creeping geranium or an upright type of plant.

Most geraniums prefer a sunny location with at least eight hours of sun each day. They should be planted in a nice garden spot that has well-drained, loose soil. Heavy or clay soils should be amended with peat, compost and mulch to help geraniums grow better.

Planting Geraniums

Plant geraniums in the spring, but be sure all danger of frost has passed, as they won’t germinate or bloom until the soil temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Geraniums are usually propagated through cuttings taken from older geranium plants. Start them indoors in a loose soilless mix like vermiculite or perlite, not transplanting outside until the geranium cuttings are well-rooted and strong.

Cuttings can be taken any time of year, but will root best in spring and summer. If you’re starting from seeds, sow them indoors in potting mix with 16-20 hours of light, and a soil temperature of about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

In warm, sunny areas, the heat and light may be available naturally, but in more northern areas, you probably will need to use artificial lighting and heating. You can plant them outside when they are showing leaves.

Caring for Geraniums

Geraniums suffer quickly if over watered or over fertilized. Water them when the soil is dry to the touch, but not before. They will do better in dry soil than in soil that’s too wet. Whether indoors or outdoors, be sure the soil for geraniums is well drained, and that any containers are too.

Fertilize once at planting, with a 10-10-10 fertilizer, at a rate of about two pounds per 100 square feet. You can add another application of fertilizer in midsummer if needed.

Water after fertilizing to help it spread into the soil. Another tip for geranium care is to check over the flowers regularly, pinching off any faded blooms or dried-up leaves. This will help prevent pests and diseases from flourishing in the plants.

Geranium Pests & Diseases

Insects are usually not a problem for geraniums, as their strong, bitter scent keeps most bugs from bothering them. In fact, geraniums are sometimes used as border plantings around gardens simply for their bug-repellent ability. However, some diseases do attack geraniums under the right conditions.

Root rot can develop from overwatering, while leaf drop begins to happen if geraniums are allowed to go through cycles of wilt and heavy rain too often.

Botrytis fungus is a common enemy of geraniums, but you can avoid it by removing dead and faded flowers and leaves regularly, and specialized geranium fungicides are available to combat an infection if one starts.

With any disease, if it begins to affect your geraniums severely, prune back, cut off or remove any dead, dying and diseased areas of the plant to prevent the disease or fungus from spreading.

Want to learn more about growing geraniums?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The University of Minnesota has good advice for both outdoor and indoor geraniums.

Geraniums are highlighted in this issue of Horticulture and Home Pest News from Iowa State University.

A North Dakota State University horticulturist has good advice for gardeners overwintering geraniums.

Impatiens Flowers: Growing and Care

Impatiens Basics

Impatiens are an annual flower that comes in a large variety of colors, including pink, blue, yellow, red, white and purple. Old-fashioned types are fairly tall, up to two feet, but the more common modern impatiens available are as short as six inches from the ground and more compact, spanning 10 or 12 inches around. They are liked by many gardeners for their shade tolerance. For the best coloring of impatiens flowers, they need filtered light or partial shade, as direct or full sun will fade the blooms. They prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soil, with a pH around 6.0 to 6.5.

Planting Impatiens

Impatiens grow well from seed, but are slow to germinate. Plant seeds in a sterile, soilless potting mix or in seed flats. Start impatiens seeds well in advance of spring; you can plant seeds indoors 6 to 10 weeks before setting the seedlings outside. They can be hardened off and set outside after the last chance of frost damage. If you start with impatiens seedlings forma nursery or garden store instead, plant after frost danger is past, and choose a partially shaded location with good soil. If you have the tall varieties, space them 18 to 24 inches apart, while the smaller, compact impatiens can be planted from 8 to 10 inches apart.

Caring for Impatiens

Take note of the location of your impatiens when determining care guidelines. They are favored for under trees and large shrubs, as they need shade, but in such a location, they will need more water and fertilizer, as they will be competing for nutrients with the tree roots. Impatiens needs rich, moist soil, and it’s often a good idea to mulch them really lightly in a layer around the bases, to keep water near the roots longer. Impatiens will let you know when they need water, as the soft stems wilt very quickly when they are without water for too long. Using a liquid fertilizer once a month will help keep impatiens blooming and growing lushly all summer. Impatiens is an annual, and must be replanted each year, but usually does not need pinching or pruning through the growing season, so most of your work for impatiens will come at planting time. If you find your impatiens begins to get too tall and spindly, cutting it back will renew the plant’s efforts toward blooming, and reduce the top-heavy growth. Whether or not to prune is up to you, however, as it’s not needed for the health of the plant.

Pests & Diseases

Most pests and diseases that affect impatiens can be avoided with proper cultivation and care. Moisture stress is a common problem for impatiens across climates; without enough watering, they will not only wilt, but if the wilt is allowed to continue, they will drop leaves and flowers and be much more prone to pests and diseases. In the germination phase, impatiens is prone to damping off, so plant plenty of extra seeds in case this happens. Some plant viruses affect impatiens, but these are difficult to prevent or fight, beyond ensuring you buy seeds, seedlings and plants from reputable nurseries, and keeping your garden tools and containers scrupulously clean. Fungi, rots, and blights also can affect impatiens. Keep soil moist, but not soggy or squishy, to avoid these, and if you see any spots, rot or blight symptoms, remove and discard the dead, dying or diseased parts of the plant to keep it form spreading. Insects to watch for include spider mites, aphids, mealy bugs, and thrips; wash eggs and larvae off plant stems if you find them, and keep mulch clean, dry and light.

Want to learn more about growing impatiens?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

Clemson University in South Carolina has a guide to impatiens.

Impatiens are explored as a bedding plant by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System.

Some of impatiens’ history and preferences are explained in this University of Vermont Extension article.

Marigolds: Growing and Proper Care

Marigold Basics

Marigolds are loved by many home gardeners for their bright, sunny colors, pretty flowers, and the fact that they are incredibly easy to care for. They do well as bedding plants, bordering planters, or lining vegetable gardens.

Marigolds are available in several types, from the taller African marigolds that do well in drought, to the shorter, bushier French marigolds that tolerate moisture and humidity better. There are also hybrids that provide a combination of characteristics, but are sterile. These are still popular for their continual blooming all season long.

Marigolds are available mainly in shades of yellow, gold and orange, and also range in scent from strongly-scented Mexican varieties to small lemon-scented signet marigolds. Once planted, most marigolds will reseed themselves thoroughly the following year, unless they are a sterile hybrid.

Planting Marigolds

There are a few options for marigold planting. They can, of course, be bought as mature plants from nurseries and garden centers, and be planted full-grown. You also can start marigolds from seed.

Whether you start it indoors or outdoors will depend largely on the length of your growing season; in climates with short summers, marigolds should be started indoors six weeks before the last frost date. Alternately, you can sow marigold seeds outdoors after the last frost, allowing a few weeks for germination.

Marigolds should be planted in full sun locations, in well-drained soil. When you plant, follow spacing guidelines for the type of marigold you have. Smaller plants can be placed 6 to 9 inches apart, while the larger ones should be up to 18 inches apart.

Care for Marigolds

Marigolds don’t require much regular care throughout the growing season. Water marigolds only when the soil is dry or in droughts. They prefer too-dry conditions to too-wet soil. However, you can’t rely on obvious wilt signs to tell when marigolds need watering, as their stalks and leaves are so hardy.

Instead, use the rule of thumb that you should water them when the soil is dry to the touch. Water until the soil is moist, but not soggy. To maintain blooming and appearance, and prevent disease, pinch off flower heads that have wilted or faded throughout the summer.

You don’t need to fertilize, except for once at planting time in the spring, and then only if you are working with poor soil. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, either liquid or granular.

The only other care tip to keep in mind is that if you have the taller African marigolds, they may need to be staked in mid or late summer as they get tall and leggy, to keep them from breaking, drooping or falling over.

Marigold Pests & Diseases

Marigolds are free from most insect pests, as they have a bitter scent and taste, so they are often used as a sort of natural bug repellent surrounding prized fruits or vegetables. One insect that doesn’t mind the taste of marigolds, however, is the grasshopper, which can damage marigolds pretty severely if they invade.

Under the right conditions, such as high heat and low humidity, spider mites also can do some damage to marigolds. Prevent them by keeping an eye out for any eggs or larvae, and washing them off of the plants immediately with a mild soap mixture.

As far as disease, marigolds sometimes can suffer from aster yellows, a virus which can be spotted when the leaves begin to yellow and soften. This will lead to stunting and death, and the disease is almost impossible to combat, so infected plants should be pulled and disposed of by burning or another destructive method that won’t spread the disease.

Want to learn more about growing marigolds?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject:

The Iowa State University Extension has plenty of great marigold information.

The University of Nebraska at Lincoln’s horticulture extension "

Pansies: Caring and Growing

Pansy Basics

Pansies are a biennial plant, so they flower every other year, and are in the same family as violets and violas. They’re suited to most North American climates, and are fairly cold hardy, flowering in the early spring and spreading quickly throughout the summer.

They are a fast-growing groundcover plant, so be mindful that they may pop up in other places in your yard than where you first planted them. Their flowers are often shades of purple, dark red, yellow and white, with contrasting centers, and specific varieties are often bred for varying colors such as gold, maroon and pink, so you can find pansies that blend well with any flowerbed color plan.

Pansies grow best in locations with full sun and rich, loamy soil that is well-drained.

Planting Pansies

New pansy seeds or seedlings should be planted in the spring. Space them between 7 and 12 inches apart to allow for their full growth. Plant seedlings by spreading their roots slightly, placing into pre-dug holes, and firming the soil around them.

Water soon after planting. If planting seeds, plant them about 1/8 inch deep in a mixture of loam and sand for good drainage and loose soil. The flowerbed should be deep enough for good rooting, about 9 to 12 inches deep.

Seeds should germinate in just 5 to 8 days. However, you should not expect the trademark pansy blooms until the following spring if you start the year previous from seed. The planting process for mature plants, whether bought commercially or transplanted, is quite different.

Plant them in the fall in the location you wish to have pansies in the spring. Be sure they are well-established before frosts arrive; about 4 to 6 weeks ahead of the first frost is a good guideline.

Caring for Pansies

Maintenance of pansies isn’t too difficult; they are tolerant little flowers that will reward you with lush growth if they are in the right location. Be sure they are in a spot that gets full sun

Zinnia Flowers: Tips on Growing and Caring

Zinnia Basics

Zinnias are a versatile plant, ranging in appearance and type from eight inches to four feet tall, and including single and double blooms. There are zinnias with dahlia-like, cactus-like, beehive and button flowers.

The flowers also range in color, including whites, yellows, pinks and reds, and even lavenders and greens. The pretty plants are favored for their attractiveness to butterflies, which help pollinate a garden. No matter what kind of zinnia you grow, it will need a full sun location, which will help the zinnia bloom more and grow healthier.

Zinnias prefer well-drained soil, rather than heavy, dense garden soil or clay soils. Prepare the soil in the bed where you want to grow zinnias by turning it and loosening it, mixing in peat moss and sand for drainage, and compost to add organic matter.

Planting Zinnias

Most of the time, zinnias are planted by sowing seed outdoors, as they grow quickly in warm weather, and bloom for a considerable length of time across the growing season. They can be sown in the ground or the garden after the last frost date.

You also can start zinnias from seed indoors, planting them in flats or a seed starting medium 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost date. Keep them under artificial lights at a temperature between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds should germinate in 6 to 10 days.

Don’t put seedlings out until the temperatures are reliably warm in the spring, as they struggle in cooler weather. For most zinnias, you won’t need to worry about collecting seeds or replanting the following year, as they usually reseed themselves quite well.

Zinnia Care

Zinnias are heavy feeders, so plan to fertilize them regularly and often, as this will encourage lush, colorful blooming. Use a balanced 10-10-10 or 6-6-6 fertilizer, applying about one pound per 100 square feet for a first spring planting application.

You can apply another round of fertilizer in mid- or late summer, as zinnias will bloom well into the fall with fertilization. Deadheading, or pinching off dead flower blooms, is good for all types of zinnias, and if you want to encourage yours to grow into a bushy, compact shape, you can pinch off the growing tips that try to shoot upward.

Or, if you want to grow them long-stemmed for cut flowers, plant your zinnias closer together and pinch off lower shoots to encourage tall growth instead. Water zinnias regularly, keeping soil moist, but avoid overwatering. Water more in hot climates.

Zinnia Pests & Diseases

The most common problem for zinnias is powdery mildew. To prevent it, be sure there is good air circulation around the plants, and that they are not too close together. Mildew likes cool, wet conditions, so water during the day instead of at night.

Water carefully, directing the water at the base of the plant, into the soil, to prevent water from staying on leaves and stems. Some zinnia growers also use preventative applications of fungicide before powdery mildew develops, since it is so common.

There also are mildew-resistant hybrid cultivars of zinnia now available. Alternaria, or leaf spot, also can afflict zinnias, but can be prevented with good air circulation and regular deadheading. Also pinch off any diseased, dying or damaged parts of the plants and discard them to prevent disease spread.

Zinnias can suffer from insect pests as well, of which the most probably are aphids and spider mites. Pick them off by hand, or wash them off the pants with a targeted stream of water from a spray bottle. Do this during the day, so any residual water evaporates quickly. Regular watering and fertilizing can control insects.

The fertilizing strengthens the plant, and watering helps counteract hot, dry weather, which creates prime conditions for insect pests.

Want to learn more about growing zinnias?

Check out these Web sites chosen by us for more information on the subject.

The University of Illinois Extension has a helpful article on zinnias.

The Hendry County Extension of the University of Florida talks zinnias.

A handy fact sheet on zinnias is available from the National Garden Bureau.

How to Grow Peonies

Peonies are a perennial that are highly visible in flower gardens every spring. Blossoms are large and fragrant and the dark green foliage keeps the garden alive with color throughout the summer months and into the fall. The showing of these beautiful flowers makes them very popular with people all over the world.

History

The history of peonies is somewhat debatable. One accounting places them in China 4,000 years age. Shortly thereafter it’s thought the peony was adopted by the Japanese culture, where it was and still is a symbol of prosperity. At that time only the wealthiest of people grew peonies in the garden.

A second theory is that the peony was named for Greek physician, Paeon because it possessed miraculous healing powers. Legend specifies that the peony’s root was used to heal wounds during the Trojan wars.

During the 1800s, many new varieties of hybrid peonies were cultivated in France. In the US, Thomas Jefferson recorded his experiences with the peony in his journal in 1771. In the mid 19th century, peonies were imported from China.

These were bred with both English and French peonies for hardiness, new colors and blossom size and form. By 1959, hundreds of peony varieties were listed in a book that was published by the American Peony Society.

Blooms

Peony blooms range in color from white to cream and from pale pink to dark red. Blossoms vary and can be single or double, blooming in May and June. Always remove peony blooms when they are spent. If you want foliage to stay green and lush through the hot summer months, remove spent blooms before seed pods form.

Peony blooms are heavy, so plant them in an area that is protected from strong winds. Do not cut blooms until the peony plant has become well-established

Planting Tips for a Beautiful Daylily Garden

Daylilies are always one of the most dramatic and one of the most remarkable denizens of the garden, but like other flowers, the way daylilies are planted will have a strong impact on how they grow and thrive. It is important to understand the needs of these remarkable flowers in order to get the most vibrant and long lasting blooms.

One thing that gardeners will need to know is that daylilies are true sun loving plants. In order to grow and bloom their best, these sun loving flowers will need to get at least half a day of full sunlight every day.

It is important, therefore, for gardeners to choose the spot where the daylily will be planted carefully, and to ensure that plenty of sunlight will be available throughout the growing season. Daylilies can tolerate some filtered shade, but it is still important that they receive at least half a day of full sunlight every day.

When choosing daylilies in the nursery, it is important to carefully examine their condition and to reject any plants that show sings of disease or damage. Most daylilies will be shipped as bare root plants, and it is important to ensure that the plants have not been damaged in shipment.

After the plants have been evaluated, and the best plants chosen, it is time to get ready for planting. Planting the daylily is typically a straightforward affair, beginning of course with the digging of the hole. As with other plants, it is important to dig a hole larger than the roots of the plant, and after the hole has been dug, a mound of dirt should be placed in the bottom of the hole.

The roots of the plant will be spread out over this mound of dirt, making sure not to damage the roots. Some gardeners will sprinkle a touch of fertilizer around the mound before setting the plant in the hole, while others prefer to skip this step.

No matter what the choice when it comes to fertilization, the planting depth should be no greater than one inch above the point where the foliage meets the roots. After the proper planting depth has been achieved, the hole should be filled with dirt.

When filling the hole, be sure that there are no air pockets, and water the newly planted daylily thoroughly to get those beautiful flowers off to a great start.